Trekking in Peru - The Santa Cruz Loop

One of the most popular destinations in all of South America is probably Machu Picchu, but Peru is a culturally rich country, filled with hidden treasures for those willing to venture off the beaten track. In the summer of 2005 I discovered an area in Northern Peru with beautiful scenery and none of the crowded trails encountered on the way to Machu Picchu.

The Santa Cruz Loop is offered as a 4 or 5-day trek that departs out of Huaraz (alt. 10,200 ft/3091 meters), an 8-hour bus ride from Lima. I booked a tour in advance, but found that it would have been much cheaper to go through one of the local companies located on the main drag of the town. My guides were Carlos and Nestor (Nestor can be reached at bazilio123@hotmail.com) and both did a great job leading and cooking for our group of 7 hikers.


For those in the group who were properly acclimated to the high altitude, the hike wasn't terribly strenuous, but as I had only spent one day in Huaraz before our departure I suffered from lack of oxygen and weak legs the entire time. Despite my ongoing struggle with the altitude, I still had a great experience and was intoxicated by the glacial lakes, snow-capped peaks and varied terrain we crossed during the 5-day excursion. Our heavy packs were carried by mules, so all we had to worry about was water and a few other essentials.


Each day we awoke to cold, but clear weather, and after hearty breakfasts we would pack up our tents and head out for a few hours of hiking. Lunches were served near rivers or under shady trees, and I was always amazed at the quality of food we received while in the middle of nowhere. After lunch we would rest up a bit and then hike a few more hours until reaching the next campsite. Upon arrival we were always greeted with snacks, hot drinks, and the opportunity to just hang out and enjoy the views until dinner. The night skies were unreal - more stars than you can imagine and the chance to see the Southern Cross, a constellation we don't see in the Northern Hemisphere.



The highest altitude we reached during the trek was at Punta Union (15,600 ft./4750 m.) and the views were incredible. Most of the people in my group only stayed for 4 days, but the hike to Laguna 69 on day 5 was probably my favorite of the loop, so I would highly recommend doing the 5-day option. This trip is great for single travelers, as you can join in with other hikers. In my experience I met lots of Europeans and Australians in South America, so if you're interested in the international element this is also a great way to go.

If you want to give yourself time to acclimate before doing this trek, there's an interesting site called Chavin de Huantar that can be done as a day trip from Huaraz. The Chavin culture predates the Incas by about 2,000 years and is the oldest in Peru, dating from about 1,000 to 300 BC. Notable at Chavin de Huantar is the highly sophisticated underground irrigation system with canals, tunnels and a decoratively carved rock called the Lanzon de Chavin.